IBinggear – Nitrous and blowers and turbos and bacon shirt

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Isik’s analogue satisfaction came, he said, in cutting and shaping couture-referencing shapes that saw their criss-cross, shoulder-wrapping tailoring silhouette updated and then redeployed as an off-the-shoulder neckline. This was applied with magisterial subversiveness on a black dress/coat in jersey, quilted satin, and a queenly faux-fur in tabby cat tones. Maybe it was that theme, but the silhouette and facade of piratic pointed boots under fitted pants and stretched patterned tops or checked shirting variously recalled Westworld and Black Mirror’s “USS Callister.” Pleather boy looks were sometimes Matrix moody, while a treated-canvas python-print full look (down to the matching boots that were part of the brand’s debut all-vegan footwear range) seemed its own fresh reference.

Nitrous and blowers and turbos and bacon shirt

As well as his genetic identity and his love of photography, Paul Smith inherited from his father, Harold, a gray suit. “It stands up on its own! It’s bullet-proof!” he said. “Phoebe Philo or Jil Sander would love it, it’s in the same type of fabric they often used to work with.” For this collection Smith reconsidered what he’s handed down to us, his customers, over his 51 years in the business.Appropriately styled by Julian Ganio, who has been plundering and wearing his own father’s Paul Smith archive since the 1990s, the collection was a restrained but precisely composed remix of many menswear tropes that Smith has both witnessed and contributed to over those decades. Some of the highlights from this album of restored snapshots lent freshness through reprocessing included photo-prints and distorted paisley on slim fit workwear and outerwear, striped mohair knits, four button mod-recycling (and recycled) suiting north of crepe soled loafers, a lushly electric orange donkey jacket, and a pale blue three-quarter length shearling in which to be clad would feel simultaneously dad, rad, and bad (i.e. very good).

Nitrous and blowers and turbos and bacon Hoodie den

Well, it’s still winter, and we’re still living through a global pandemic—meaning it’s more important than ever to appreciate the small things that give us joy. Nothing fits that bill better than Netflix’s newest slate of movies and TV shows. Below, take a look at everything that’s hitting the streaming service in February.Smith said on a call that following his 50th-anniversary show in Paris this time last year, the months of intermittent lockdown had thrown up no new creative experiences through which to cast this collection. “I was doing a lot of interviews about my time in the business and spending most of my days here in the office. It made me think that, well, I’m not going to museums or traveling, so my inspiration has got to come from my memory or what’s in this room.” This was a deftly designed collection that for those blessed with young eyes and short memories will look covetably new. For those more long in the tooth it will serve to renew our enthusiasm for this evergreen and ever-curious designer. 

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